Super Perros,Bogota Colombia: The Colombian Hot Dog Puts the Super in Super-Sized

In Argentina the local hot dogs are called panchos, their grander offerings, super-panchos; Bolivia,Paraguay, and Uruguay also have their respective variations called panchos;Venezuela is content with just callin 'em hot hogs(with a cool spanish accent,of course=hote doeg); in Brazil, it's the ingredient packed dogão;Chile has the mayo spackled completo; but perhaps the grandest of all South-American hot dogs is the super-perro, or super-dog from Colombia.

The super-perro is a tremendous bite densely packed with all things good. Toppings vary, but there are some basics, the special pan perro bun, mozarella cheese, ketchup, mustard, garlic mayonaisse, pink ketchup to exite the eyes, relish, onions, tomatoes, and a mound of crushed potato chips.Maybe a bit of pineapple thrown in for extra sweetness? One stand I came across in Bogota even offered quail eggs!

Most of these stands are simply titled super-perros, and they can be found all over Colombia.


I came across a rather camera shy woman with her family one night in Bogota's Zona Rio, my neighborhood stay of choice; it's where the party's at. They come to Bogota from nearby Zipaquira to sell these hulking hot dogs. They are located across the street from the El Corral in the Zona Rio, it's a branch of a popular,local burger chain.


You can't have a super-perro without pan perro, or dog bread. It's a light, airy sesame-seed bun with a crust that gets browned and crisped on a flat iron.


A rainbow of condiments says Colombia: ketchup, pink ketchup, mustard, and a spicy,garlic mayonaisse are the standard quartet of criss-crossed patterns of condiment.


While the bun with its fillings are getting toasty, mozarella cheese is grilled to make a sealing layer atop the super-perro.


The finished product is a startling proposition, surely this is too much to eat at once; these are big enough to share.


This formidable bite bestows upon its owner a medley of compositions and dashes, from crunch to snap; from sweet to salt. The pan perro really sets this hot dog apart from other similar South-American style dogs, and also gives the super-perro its girth. Oh yeah, my super-perro costed $1500 Colombian pesos, under a dollar in US currency.

The Colombian hot dog is best enjoyed at a stand with an ice-cold gaseosa, a soft drink, just look for the super-perro sign or banner, super-sized for your pleasure.

Super Perros
kiosk across from the EL Corral
in the Zona Rio
Bogota, Colombia
All over Bogota, Colombia and
throughout the rest of the country
afternoons and evenings

La Bonga del Sinú, Bogota,Colombia: A Colombian Steakhouse With Coastal Hospitality, It's the Tetas!

In the gastronomic capitals of Latin America, you can afford the luxury of experiencing regional cuisines from all over the country, and Bogota, Colombia is no exception.La Bonga Del Sinú, located in the high octane nightlife of the Zona Rosa, features the meat intensive culture of the Sinu, just inland from the Mediterranean coast. Colombia has the distinction of having the waters of the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans, and Caribbean Sea grace its coastal territory. From the savannahs near Monteria, where the first La Bonga Del Sinú began, comes the high quality cattle, served with the coastal charm of Colombia's Caribbean.



Joining me for this carnivires delight was the lovely Patricia, who actually was my inspiration to start really studying spanish.I had just come from a trip to Mexico City and Aguascalientes,Mexico,a pilgrimage I had made to reconnect with my family in Mexico after my father passed away back in 2002, and was set to perform in Colombia,El Salvador, and Honduras.

Colombia was first, and despite all the fearful tales the other band members were telling on the plane, and in the hotel lobby when we arrived, I spied this beautiful Colombiana taking pictures, Patricia. I struck up conversation, and while my band mates were hiding under their beds, I was off night after night bar hopping and exploring the restaurant scene with Paty. Yes, there was a bit of romance, and a wonderful time getting to know Bogota with her at my side every moment I spent in Colombia's capitol.

My Mexican born dad didn't want me to experience the discrimination he went through as a child, and insisted that my grandparents weren't to teach me spanish, nor would he speak spanish to me, ever. But, trying to speak with my family in Mexico using a translator, and Spanish-English distionary was frustrating while I was in visiting them in Aguascalientes, but the week's worth of practice came in handy by the time I arrived in Bogota. I guess you could say the greatest motivating factor was all these sexy and lively latinas that I would be able to talk with.From the moment I met Patricia in that hotel lobby, I couldn't learn spanish fast enough.


Then, it was off to Medellin where I met Paola. Paola was traveling with the tour company, and I got her number before I left. So many reasons to come back. During the time after this amazing tour through Colombia and my next visit as a tourist, Patricia had a boyfriend, and Paola....didn't.So...what's a boy to do?I made three more trips to see my long distance novia, Paola, and Patricia, too. It was such an amazing time for me, immersing myself into Latin American cultures, cuisines, romance, a time of personal growth, and a time where I learned to truly throw caution to the wind.


Paola now is working on her first Colombian soap opera called El Joe, about the life of Colombian salsa singer Joe Arroyo, being filmed in his native Barranquilla, Colombia on channel RCN.I can see here dancing for a brief moment at about 2:50 into this promo video.

Patricia's family now runs a restaurant in Bogota called Odilio Gourmet, where she also works.

In the 8 years that have passed, I'm happy to see that both of these women are happy,doing well in Colombia's always difficult economic situation, are both as beautiful as ever,and are both still friends with me after all these years.Oh, how I missed this place.



My night out with Patricia to experience comida sinuana(Sinuan cuisine) was much more mellow than our wild night at Andres Carne de Res, where I would spend my last night in Bogota on this trip.

The restaurant was locked when we arrived, but I guess they just do that for security purposes, but was open. We were greeted by waiters dressed in coastal cowboy attire, and real nice setting, and great staff.


Anytime there's meat, it's a party. The table next to us with a large group was happily loud, frequently toasting, and even sent a few toasts our way.


We started off with some typical appetizers from the Sinú,tajadas, plantain chips, with cream and aji, a mild Colombian salsa. Much lighter than tortilla chips, and of course, some Colombian Ron Medellin with Coca-Cola.


Butifarra Colombiana has its origin in Spain, in Cataluna, but Colombia has their own distinct preparation. This is a Caribbean coast food from the city of Soledad, and is served in Colombia as an appetizer rather than a main course as it is in Spain.It is made with a natural casing stuffed with pork and chopped bacon, brown sugar,lime,salt, and pepper.This sausage has mild seasoning, so most of what you get is an intense pork flavor, paired with potatoes, and some extra lime.


We had ordered steaks, and with Patricia's Solomillo,a cut from the loin, she got arroz de coco, another coastal treat.Coconut rice is rice cooked with coconut water and flesh, sugar, and some raisins thrown in at the end of this process.We also enjoyed a fabulous side of fried yuca,warm,starchy, with its dense comfortability.


While we drank one ron con Coca-Cola after another, our meats where being cooked on the grill.American steak houses are so sanitized, it's great to smell and hear the sounds of searing meat, and to get a little smoke in your eyes.


When looking throught the menu I tried to flesh out the Colombian cuts, and punta de anca is "the tits." It's cut from the sirloin cap, something akin to Brazil's picanha steak. But speaking of tits, I spied tetas de la vaca on the menu, cow's teats!It's not really teat, but a whole udder steak.Ya know,punta de anca comes from the rear of the steer and I have this udder on the same hot iron, it's T and A.

The steaks were to die for, tender, that wonderful South American saltiness,and so juicy. But the udder steak, not fit for human consumption according to U.S laws, has an airy,mushroom-like texture. Its flavor just floats marvelously on your palate.

La Bonga del Sinú has branches in other cities, but strives to maintain their quality throughout the small chain. This is a fine option to have some carne while you're in Bogota, and an occasion to experience regional Colombian cuisine from the Sinú.

La Bonga del Sinú
Cra. 14 # 93-88
93 y Chicó
Bogota, Colombia
Phone
6919507
2573253
Mon-Sat 11:30am-11pm
Sun 11:30am-9pm

Deliciosa Lechona, Bogota,Colombia: Hog Heaven, Tolima Style

A perfect roast suckling pig is one of those foods that makes the ladies scream and the fellas throw up a fist pumping "Yeah!" It is prepared by so many cultures in their own unique ways, in Colombia it is referred to as lechona. The common thread is that this is a dish that excites our inner beast.

Colombian lechona is a specialty of the department of Tolima, just to the west of the capitol, Bogota. Colombia is divided into 32 departments, those are states to you and me.

Back in December I was walking through the bargain shopper's bazaar at San Vitorino, near the historic Candelaria in downtown Bogota, Colombia checking out the street food. I was told there was an area nearby with competing Toliman roast pig stalls, but there was so much going on in San Vitorino, so many eats, and I took a detour a few blocks away from the San Vitorino plaza when I saw the object of my quest and needed look no further.



I tucked myself against a wall in this narrow restaurant corridor. No, this isn't a walkway to a dining room, it is the dining room. I love these places in Latin America, a mere sliver of a restaurant, where comings and goings require you to walk sideways, brushing up against the other customer. This isn't a dining experience for the claustrophobic.


This lechona stopped me in my tracks as I made my way towards the plaza. It is truly sublime, the sight of this golden, cripy pig. But here's the part that might just strain your optic nerve. The cost of a serving is about $1.55.

Lechona Tolimense is traditionally roasted in a brick oven. The carcass is stuffed with the pig's meat, cooked rice, chick peas, onions,rubbed with an adobo that includes cumin, and Seville orange juice is brushed on the skin to flavor the lechona and give it color.


Each order come with arepitas, little, soft arepas served cold.Arepas are the tortillas of Colombia, thick and flavorless corn discs, that are prepared in a variety of styles, and sizes.

These come from the El Carriel bakery, and are a common store bought arepa.


To drink, an orange soda from Hit, a popular Colombian brand of sodas.


Luscious and majestically, fatty rice is served with a perfectly brittle patch of skin, so savory,barely held together by an underside of oleaginous tissue. The arepita is a perfect pairing of cold, corn cake, with no qualities that can distract you from the porkgasm at hand.


All I saw on the entrance to this closet of a restaurant was Deliciosa Lechona, perhaps there was a name somewhere, or I could have asked, but I didn't have much to say.....dumbfounded. But, this place needs no other name, Delicious Lechona, indeed. I can barely imagine this being done any better.

Deliciosa Lechona
Jimenez 9-67
near San Vitorino Plaza
Bogota, Colombia

La Rumba in Bogota, Colombia: Andres Carne de Res, Where the Hips Don't Lie

You were not really in Colombia unless you went to a rumba. A rumba is a party, Colombian style, where there's food, drink, and dancing.The food should be ample fuel for the cumbia and salsa spins and twirls, the aguardiente to loosen your morals, and the place to be on fire.

Andres Carne de Res is famous for its bawdy, frenetic rumba. Located about 45 minutes out of town in Chia, is by all counts well worth the drive. Recently, they opened one right in the Zona Rosa neighborhood in Bogota, across from the Andino Mall.

The Bogota Andres Carne de Res is less rustic than its Chia branch, but packs the same punch. Convinced by my great friend Patricia, and another Bogotano that accompanied us that night, we would do just fine to rumba right here in Bogota.


Andre Carne de Res is an adult theme park of booze, food, and dance. The restaurants website states that Andres Carne de Res isn't a restaurant, bar, nor a dance hall, it's a deluded journey into insanity.

The restaurant has four themed floors, the top being Heaven. Heaven(cielo) is a quite place for families with children to preserve their innocence.The third floor is purgatory(purgatorio), for those still capable fo redemption. Below is Earth(tierra)where diners are laid to rest before the party begins. Lastly, Hell(infierno), where the hips shake, bodies writhe in seductive ambulation, the bacchanalia unfolds, and the flirtations are dead serious.



The huge kitchen on the third floor is amply staffed to feed the hungry rumberos(partiers) with traditional Colombian plates.


We were seated next to the dance floor a few minutes after arriving thanks to my gift of gab. There were circus-like characters dancing around the restaurant, on a stage or just about anywhere they can find a little room to wiggle.



It's a good idea to take a walk around this massive restaurant, my tour of all floors lasted about 15 minutes. The wait staff shows you the fire exits once you are seated and puts your jackets and purses in a pad-locked bag that only you have the key to, so you can dance uninhibited.A wild ride indeed.


WHether in Chia or this Bogota outpost, the tables are always packed and the conversation just oozes out of each booth.


There's so much energy and stimulation that I barely noticed a loud birthday parade across the other side of the dance floor, musicians and sparklers sizzling amidst the chaos.The restaurant may remind you of being in a four story House of Blues rearranged for efficiency, where food, music, and dance collide.


But the dancing has begun and we haven't ordered yet, oh and the drinks!


Tender coconut and sliced oranges are served to whet your appetite.These are a new obsession, why doesn't everybody have coconut and orange slices?


Classic empanadas de carne from Andres' kitchen are filled with well seasoned ground beef with firm yet giving fried batter. Colombian aji(spicy dipping sauce), the standard empanada dance partner was as delicious as everything we had that night. I think everything tastes better inside this wild, party palace.


Arepas(white corn patty)of all styles, shapes, and sizes are ubiquitous in Colombia, not just the usual semi-firm discs we find in LA. It was time to try the arepa with fried cheese. Here it comes with a Colombian gathering of mouth-watering toppings. Hogao(like a Colombian sofrito), ground beef, cheese from the Colombian state of Antioquia,guacamole,aji,chicharrones,and beans.


I adorned this arepa with all the typical condiments at our disposal.Each one of them were great. This place has an extensive menu, and does a fantastic job of making quality food in respect to the tremendous output of the kitchen.


Sobrebarriga, the Colombian creole standard looked like a nice way to round out the dining protion of our evening.It gets its name from the cut of meat that lies just above the stomach of the steer.The sauce is tomato based with a lot of cumin giving it its yellow color. This dish gets its flavor and supple texture from long cooking over low heat.

The only drawback with the Bogota Andres Carne de Res is they have fewer menu items, but the offerings here are still formidable. The grilled meats are famous here, but I had reached the meat threshold the day before, so we three shared these dishes and saved some room for dancing!!



The frozen mandarina(mandarin orange)drink is highly recommended here. It has a fun hollowed out coconut shell for a cup, every detail at Andres Carne de Res has been orchestrated and given its due attention. The mandarin flavor is intensely fresh, so good it goes down like water.



A shot of Colombian Santa Fe rum, we became well acquainted over this short trip, arrived with a glass of ice, but this one goes does just fine, neat.Though,Colombians prefer these rums with a glass of ice and some coke, and for the cheaper rums, I can't say I blame them.



Another worthy attraction in Colombia is definitely the beautiful women, who surely know how to work it on the floor.Colombians, like Brazilians, are natural dancers.We met these lovely Rolas(girls from Bogota),Jenny and Sandra as they were slamming shots at the table next to us.


The dance floor, once the first couples got up, stayed full until long after we departed.

The music had everything from local rythyms, cumbia and Colombian salsa, to reggaeton, to Lady Gaga and Michael Jackson.Patricia can tear up the dance floor, although I couldn't quite hang on the Colombian salsa tunes, we were doing just fine on Pit Bull's "I Know You Want Me".


After about seven straight songs, I finally got to have a bottle of Poker beer. It was my last night and I had mostly come across Club Colombia, Aguila, and Costena during my trip.The restaurant puts little wings on the bottle, so that they can fly into your mouth. Another added touch that makes Andres Carne de Res a fun place to spend an evening, and the perfect last hurrah in Bogota.


The table next to us had the right idea for a proper rumba. Get a bottle of aguardiente, plunge it in a bucket of ice, and continuously fill shot glasses.A bottle of water should be on the table to mix with the anise-flavored aguardiente. This ritual is practiced in the restaurants, bars, homes, and on the streets of Bogota. Millions passing around shots of aguardiente in a hands across the nation manner.We shared a little rumba with these viviacious Bogotanos.


As a final thought from the mind of Senor Andres de Res, a Mastercard logo shaped box arrives with your check.Fastened to the box, a mini-flashlight, magnifying glass, and a pen to assist you in paying the check.

I too plan to go to Chia someday to experience the original, but check out the Bogota branch, you won't be missing a thing. Classic Colombian comfort food and grilled meats, lovely Rolas(Bogota women)dancing with coquetish smiles, the intense energy of Bogota and its spirited people,la rumba, aguardiente, and the wild abandonment of Andres Carne de Res.This is required partying when in Bogota.

Andres Carne de Res
Calle 82 # 11 - 57
82 y Calle T
Bogota, Colombia
12:00 m a 3:00 a.m.

also in Chia
calle 3 No. 11A-56
Chia, Colombia, El Mundo
(57)863 7880