Brazil is the Flavor in 2014, and Chef Alex Atala to Replace Redzepi as Top Dog

Carnaval 2014 in Brasil will highlight the beauty of Brazilian culture to the world


Times marches on..Just a few years ago Chef Ferran Adria was on the cover of every major and minor food medium, and the deconstructionist cuisine he pioneered, more commonly known as molecular gastronomy. In the post-Adria/decostructionist era, Chef Rene Redzepi's style of modern-Nordic cuisine has sent more chefs of the current generation foraging into the woods than college drama majors by Steven Sondheim.

Chef Alex Atala, bringing Brazilian ingredients and heritage to São Paulo's D.O.M.  

What's next? Well, let's all agree that there has to be a next, and I believe--reading the writing on the wall--that Brazilian cuisine, and Chef Alex Atala are the next thing. Adria had pegged Peruvian as the cuisine to watch along with his dreadful Lima Declaration speech (rightfully checked by sir Jay Rayner), and regional Mexican and Asian cuisines will continue to occupy our minds and dining experiences here in L.A., but Brasil--Brasil through the brilliant hands and products at Chef Alex Atala's D.O.M. in São Paulo!


Part of this focus will be because of World Cup(2014) and the Olympics(2016).


The next big thing will be ingredients--which is the one thing I hear most chefs talking about the most--it's the most important thing, and all chefs are highlighting their local treasures more than ever. Yet, the elite position of Pellegrino's No. 1 restaurant in the world hasn't been based on ingredients.


Brazil just happens to have some of the most interesting products in the world and Chef Alex Atala is heading to the reaches of the Amazon, working with indigenous communities to form cooperatives. That along with the undiscovered regional cuisines in Brasil--26 states have their own distinctive cuisines--and Atala is working hard in his kitchen(not all chefs on the circuit bother to be in their kitchens), and just as hard on the media circuit.

Moqueca de camarão, shrimp moqueca at Moqueca in Oxnard.


We'll all learn more about it as 2014 moves along; until then--check out one of the greatest regional Brazilian restaurants in the U.S., Oxnard's Moqueca, for Espiritu Santo cuisine, in my latest for Los Angeles Magazine Digest.

     

Street Gourmet LA in LA Magazine's Digest: Cantinho Brasileiro

Cantinho Brasileiro at the Camaguey Meat Market

Good news for Culver City residents; the Camaguey Meat Market has a new vendor, the Cantinho Brasileiro, serving up traditional Brazilian lanchonete fare. Go for the legit coxinha with catupiry, pasteis, kibbis, and the prato feito, a main dish with rice and beans in my latest for Los Angeles Magazine's Digest.

Ta Bom! A Model Food Truck

LA's first Brazilian food truck was just a few months old when I first came across them. I eagerly dashed over to Wilshire Bl. one afternoon to check them out. When I saw pastel and coxinha(pronounced co-sheen-ya) on the menu my heart skipped a beat.

Coxinha(a chicken croquette in the shape of a chicken thigh) is't done very well by the Brazilian restaurants here in LA. The best ones,at Woodspoon and Rio Brazil Cafe, are the mini-sized ones you get for birthday parties in Brazil.These are great but don't have the usual moisture. There's just something about that hefty coxinha you get from the many lanchonetes in Brazil.The only full-sized one in town is at Bossa Nova, which is tainted by a coarse, KFC flavored breading. The flavor and texture are all wrong.

A pastel, the flaky skinned savory pastry? Only came across one, at Cafe Brazil, which is more like a baby rattle with its paltry filling.Again, other restaurants do them, but they are the mini-sized variety and look more like baby empanadas.


Ta Bom was started at the prompting of Ilse Marques' Brazilian-Korean daughters, Jaqueline and Juliana Kim.

Ilse comes from Florianopolis, Santa Catarina, a southern state in Brazil, where super models are plentiful. A top designer could show up at the Iguatemi mall in Florianopolis and hold an impromtu fashion show.Ilse came to Sao Paulo where she graced the catwalks of the professional modeling scene and even did some television and film.

When here daughters were born she left her modeling career behind to focus on her family, which ultimately led Ilse to move with her husband to the US where she believed her daughters would have a better future.

Ilse was always a great cook, and had a catering company for a while, but the slowing economy left her without work. She had been out of work for a year when Jaqueline and Juliana convinced her to move her operations to a food truck, with the two girls as her assistants. The girls take orders, prep, slave over coxinhas, and are the face of Ta Bom.


Ilse, Cesar Coutino, Juliana, and Jaqueline.

They hired Cesar Coutino, a cook from Chiapas, Mexico to round out their crew and hit the streets of LA.

The new food trucks can be hit and miss. At times there is much more business going on than great cooking, but Ta Bom is a mom and daughter operation that cares about the food and the quality of their ingredients. All their beef comes from La Estancia, which they proudly display on their window.

As for the coxinha? Well, that's what I'm here for. I am a coxinha addict. I fly to Brazil and ritualistically down a a coxinha when I arrive to Brazil, and it's the last thing I taste before I board the plane.

Ta Bom's coxinha is excellent. The breading is as it should be, more fine than course, which comes from using Brazilian bread crumbs, and a well seasoned filling. Coxinha qualifies as one of the many Brazilian foods that costs in labor, well more than its retail value. A labor intensive snack that is gone in seconds.

Ilse serves it with a pico de gallo like salsa that is called vinagrete in Brazil. But, you can also ask for ketchup or mustard to put on it, which is how most Brailians enjoy coxinha in Brazil. Some malagueta pepper sauce, simply referred to as pimenta, will work too.

Since it is so time consuming to make, it's only fitting that I drive 45 minutes to where Ta Bom parks just to partake in 5 minutes of dining from ordering to finish.

These go fast so better get your bunda(butt)to the curb when they park and place your order.


The pastels, while appearing to be a simple food,are another labor intensive food that have to be made to order.They don't really exist in LA in this form. Ta Bom has savory pastels of cheese, pepper jack cheese, chicken, and beef.

A pastel is a street food that should be eaten with two hands, where a light and tasty crust gives way to something special inside. It should be explosive.

One of the highlights is the pepper jack, an oozing cheese filling with a mild bite of spice.


The ground beef filling is fantastic. Each pastel has a lovley flakiness, and the juicy and rich ground beef is extremely pleasurable. Stands in Brazil can have over ten fillings, these are a true Brazilian street food.


For dessert there is the decadent banana with Nutella pastel, dusted with cinnamon. This is reason alone to come to Ta Bom.


The cachorro(ca-sho-ho)quente, Brazilian hot dog will really knock you out. The formidable hot dog packs corn, stick fries, mustard, mayo, and ketchup. South American dogs are loaded with ingredients, and Jaqueline says that this is actually a minimalist version compared to the usual Brazilian hot dog. The textures and composition of flavors are what make this such a delicious bite.


The hamburgao(ham-boor-gow) takes the Brazilian concept of abundance up another level by adding a fried egg into the aforementioned gathering of toppings.

This is one serious hamburger, and a popular very item with Ta Bom's male customers.It's a must for you burger aficionados out there.

The have burritos and tacos too, no worries, there is a Mexican chef on board, too. Although I haven't tried them, I got a glimpe at another customer's plate one afternoon, and thought they looked very inviting.


About now, you're wondering how this Brazilian diet produces a looker like Gisele Bundchen. Well, Ta Bom has the Gisele wrap, a little something for the lighter side of dining.

A traditional Brazilian style chicken salad is cloaked in a spinach wrap. When I say a traditional Brazilian chicken salad, I mena to say their seasonings and little additions that make it unique. Brazilians love chicken salads, potato salads, and pasta salads, which you may have taken notice if you've ever paid attention to the salad bars at churrascarias. There's nothing dull about this cool, and well-seasoned treat.It's a fine option during this Brazilian bikini season.


The sweet obsession of Brazil, the brigadeiro, named after brigadeer, Eduardo Gomes is here too. Sweetened condensed milk, coco powder, and butter are mixed together, a simple dessert, but after one bite, a strong salute to the airman of note is in order.

Ta Bom means it's good, or everything's good in Portuguese. Many an argument and misunderstanding is resolved this way in Brazil. A thumbs up aften accompanies the phrase.

Ta Bom is what a truck should be, not a business model, but a model food delivery system.This is authentic Brazilian street food from a family that cooks together and cares about their customers. The cooking and seasoning are consistent throughout the entire menu, with the balance in flavor display the mark of a real home cook, and the the food is put together 100% Brazilian.

Give them a try and find out why everything is good at Ta Bom!

Ta Bom

Ta Bom on twitter for truck location and business hours

Galletto Bar and Grill, Westlake Village-where the SPECIALTIES by Santino Coccia are Overpricing, Bad Food, with a side of Rude

I had been waiting to go to Galletto Bar and Grill in Westlake Village for some time, it's been more than a year since I had planned to go. I even drove by when I was in the area one time to see where it was.

Looking at the menu online I noticed a striking resemblance to the 12 restaurant strong Sao Paulo based chain Galeto's. I went there on my first date there with my wife, so naturally I thought it was neat that there was a similar spot here in LA.

Italian food in Brazil is just as common and integrated into Brazilian cuisine as Mexican is here in the United States. Authentic Italian cuisine is better represented in Brazil than the US, and Brazilians eat risotto and pasta like we knock down tacos and enchiladas.

Galletto Bar and Grill has salads, soups, pastas, grill items, "Brazilian" brochettes called xixos, pizzas, hot and cold appetizers,and a full bar. The restaurant's name and menu are so much like the Sao Paulo based Galeto's that I first thought it was a branch of the restaurant that had come to LA, but I never got a chance to talk to Santino Coccio about it, who was seated in the table across from my friend and I.


The dinner started with a decent caipirinha, the national cocktail of Brazil made with cachaca, lime and sugar. I proceeded to take a close shot of the cocktail when someone barked, "No pictures!" I turned around to see the man seated across from me waving his finger at me and repeating, "No pictures!" I walked over to him, at this point he hadn't introduced, nor identified himself. I asked if he was the manager, he said no, so I asked to speak to the manager. He rudely blurted out,"I'm the owner, the cook, the everything" "I want my customers to have their privacy." I explained that I was just trying to photograph the food, nothing else." He stared for a second and he shrugged, "Well...then go ahead."

I looked at my friend who had given me the if-you-want-to-leave-we-can-what-a-jerk look. I felt very bothered, I mean, I respect a restaurateurs establishment and have complied the only other time I was ever asked to refrain from taking photos. I don't let poor service nor bad attitudes affect my review, except in regard to the service, and am very forgiving of my favorite ethnic restaurants that often lack professional service.

I paused for a moment and shrugged off the rude and gruff cook/owner/everything guy and started to order.


I think my friend Brian would rather have left at that point. The club has an awful band. A guitar owner, and an arythmic bongo player/singer playing along with bad karaoke tracks blasting well above the strain of our yelling to be heard. It's a cougar dance party, and I think that is really what Galletto Bar and Grill is about.

Our appetizer arrived, the burrata cheese special with prosciutto.This was nothing special at all, but not necessarily bad food. At this point we were like a couple of bored teenagers staring at the plate, eating out of necessity and routine. The prosciutto was super market deli quality.


The camarao(shrimp) Regia Victoria, named after an amazon lily claims to be a northern Brazilian specialty. I guess if just the presence of dende oil makes it northern, but where? Brazil is pretty big. That's like saying southern barbeque, vague. It's just a coconut, dende oil paste on blackened shrimp. The vegetables were stiff, the paste was simple, but this did not come together at all. The side of pirao was about the worst version I've ever had, completely off in the consistency and flavor. It only resembled pirao in name. Pirao is made with manioc meal and has a gravy like consistency, perfect for pouring over rice. It should not feel like a mound of tortilla masa.

It' not uncommon to give a dish that uses coconut milk and dende oil a name like shrimp baiana(from Bahia), so while I have no issue with a dish with an exotic name, I do have a problem with the appearance of a delicacy that clocks in at $26.95 and only delivers a fast-food quality entree. The version at Taste of Brazil in El Sereno is half the price and a much better plate.


Brian ordered the skirt steak which was fine, but the sides of instant farofa and canned vegetables were sad. Instant farofa is fine and will give you the textural sensation without much flavor, kind of like store bought tortillas. We don't mind using it at home with some beans, but I don't want it from a restaurant, especially not at these prices.

Our total with 2 drinks, 2 mains, and 2 shared appetizers was over $100 including tax and tip. The waiter was very nice and deserved a proper tip making up for the owners lack of decorum.

There have been other reports of bad service and treatment from this restaurant from others. I did a little digging around. I found out Mr. Coccio is behind Tropicalia, another non-Brazilian, Brazilian restaurant with a bad moqueca, fish stew, that also resembles the Regia-Victoria paste from Galletto, not at all the classic fish stew from both Bahia and Espiritu Santo in Brazil.

Some reviews had lauded this place for a bold combination of Italian and Brazilian cuisines, which is kind of like jumping up and down about Chili's because of its unique blend of Southern and Southwestern cuisines. There are countless chains in Brazil like Galeto's and Viena that feature this very typical blend of Brazilian dishes with the deeply rooted traditions from the Italian immigrants in Brazil.

Santino Coccio runs a Westlake Village dance club for people who aren't concerned with food nor music. I think this is a place for his regulars, but not for someone looking for good pasta, or Brazilian food.

Mr. Coccio never once looked over to smooth out the misjudgment, nor did he say a word as we exited, he was on his cell phone the whole time, and some of his regulars came by to say goodbye, he never once stood up to see them off.

I you feel compelled to try this place, I suggest you keep driving until you hit Oxnard and dine at Moqueca, where the seafood stews there will change your life.

Galletto Bar and Grill
982 Westlake Boulevard
Westlake Village, CA 91361

Brazil Day LA 2009

Across the United States there are Brazil Days each year to celebrate Brazil's independence from Portugal on September 7, 1822, and highlight Brazilian culture in the US. Los Angeles had its Brazil Day LA on September 12, at the La Brea Tar Pits, in charming Hancock Park.

Beautiful Los Angeles weather made for a great turn out from the local Brazilian community, and Angelino lovers of Brazilian culture. The event was put on by the Brazilian Consulate in Los Angeles.

There was Brazilian music, capoeira, shopping,and most importantly, FOOD!


Here is Bianca, Marisa Montoya(samba dancer), Sonaria, and little Cody at the festival showing off Brazil's greatest asset, its warm and beautiful people.


The crowd waited anxiously for Pepeu Gomes, the Brazilian guitarist from Salvador da Bahia. His backing band featured many of the best local Brazilian musicians living here in LA. They danced and soaked up the innovative sounds of Bahia under the Los Angeles sun.


What Brazil Day wouldn't be complete without some churrasco? Silvio's BBQ provided their backyard style Brazilian BBQ to all protein lovers in attendance.


But what really made me cock my head around 180 degrees was that familiar scent......of....... deep frying dende oil(palm oil).Across the throng of attendees I spotted the Sabor da Bahia booth.


Renni and Ilma were busy cooking and running two booths, the Sabor da Bahia stand and a clothing and jewelry booth, that was Ilma's job. The baianas took a moment to smile for the camera.Sabor da Bahia has the best acaraje in Los Angeles that they make out of their apartment in Culver City. Give them a call get a little taste of Bahia.


The scent of dende and the familiar acaraje frying at their booth made many Brazilian's feel at home that day. Sabor da Bahia also made a savory chicken with okra, and for dessert.....


Cocada Baiana, a coconut based dessert with condensed milk and sugar.


Fresh from her article in the LA Times, Lucience Peck was busy grilling, frying, and running all over the place at the Rio Brazil Cafe stall, formerly known as Brazil Exotic Foods.


I opted for a go at her frango em passarinho, a ubiquitous bar food item found in Brazil. Many Brazilian restaurants around do a version of this treat. The trick is in the deep frying. Rio Brazil's were tender, the right touch of garlic,and paired with a cool vinagrete. Luciene's soulful malagueta pepper sauce liberally applied took me back to that loud and delightful Brazilian pub at 2AM I went to in Rio one night not so long ago.


Pastel is a Brazilian street food as popular as hot dogs at a baseball game. Pasteis are stuffed with all kinds of meat, seafood, vegetables, combinations of foods, and cheeses. Brazilians dump ketchup, mustard, olive oil, or hot sauce on these rectangular wonton-skin like turnovers. This was a rare street food sighting here in LA. I'm still waiting for the pastel truck. Anybody?


A local organization was busy frying pasteis of cheese and beef for a horde of hungry and nostalgic clients. This booth was slammed. I suggest more fillings and a bigger fryer next year.How about doing a pastel of bacalhau(cod)?


By the time I got my order only beef was left. The pastel was fried expertly, and although not as generously filled as the ones you find in Brazil, were better than anything I've seen in LA.


My pastel contained well-seasoned, delicate meat with vegetables, nicely integrated with light,crunchy pastry.


After the food started to run out and the vendors began to pack up, the band played on and the party continued to the last note.

I missed the capoeira show, but caught these two practicing the forbidden martial art dance from the state of Bahia.


Brazil Explore magazine and the Supermercado Brazil, located in the Brazilian Mall in Culver City, were busy promoting Brazilian culture and selling traditional foods and goods.


Brazil Day in LA is a great opportunity to taste regional Brazilian foods, experience the infectious spirit of the local Brazilians, listen to music that your shaking hips can't deny, and learn about Brazilian culture.

I hope to see even more food booths next year, and someone please get a Brahma tent going or a caipirinha bar.

See you next year at Brazil Day in LA!!

Closed:Blame it on Rio Brazil Cafe

When I was gallivanting all over Little Brazil looking for the wonderful foods from Brazil I so long for, I came across some meaningful finds.

I first went to Rio Brazil Cafe when it was still Brazil Exotic Foods, before this space was briefly occupied by Delicias do Brazil and for a few years running had been Cafe Toros before that.

I started going regularly only to find it had closed, Luciene had told me she wasn't sure how long she could stay afloat, and then the health dept. closed Brazil Exotic Food for having a faulty hood on their deep fryer.I thought all was lost until I received an e-mail, yes I was on the small mailing list, from Luciene that she was back in business.

Luciene Peck has the only Brazilian restaurant in town featuring the cuisine of Rio de Janeiro, the marvelous city(cidade maravilhosa).During the week she does the typical complete meals found in luncheonettes and Brazilian pubs(botecos) called prato feito, which consists of a protein, rice, beans, farofa, and perhaps a side salad.This is Brazilian home cooking. On the weekends she pulls out all the stops and conjures up famous entrées, much needed in our saturated market of churrascarias(Brazilian steakhouses).

The restaurant is simple in decor, with a touch of sentimentality and the national colors of Brazil to welcome you into the warmth and spirit of Rio.


The feijoada of Rio is unique, feijoada is done with subtle variations throughout Brazil, different beans other than black beans in some parts, the ommitance of a particular side, a variation in spicing. But the most popular version of feijoada completa belongs to Rio.Black bean stew of salted pork parts including ear, trotters, tail,various sausages, and muscle tissue, with sides of farofa(toasted manioc meal), rice,couve(collared greens), and orange slices.

On a recent feijoada throwdown with good friend Exilekiss, we found Rio Brazil Cafe version to reign supreme, tied with Zabumba's.Luciene makes genuine feijoada, with tender meats, homemade carne seca, luscious beans, and all the pleasing textures of a real feijoada. This is required eating at Rio Brazil Cafe.


Casquinha de siri is Brazilian crab au gratin. It originates from Bahia, but is done the Carioca(person from Rio) way here in Luciene's kitchen.The differences in style are the secrets and spells of Brazilian cooks.Think of a crab au gratin laced with dende oil, and coconut milk, a whole other layer of sin.


The malagueta peppers mixed with olive oil and spices known as pimenta will temp you to excess. The heat creeps up on you, but the flavor is rich and full bodied.


Luciene's bobo de camarao, is another dish with Bahia origins,but adopted by Rio palates.This is a standout dish at Rio Brazil, delicate, with all those exotic ingredients in bold harmony.Add some pimenta and you've gone pro.


Moquecas(baian stews) of fish and hearts of palm are available on the weekends. The sauce is properly cooked down so that flavor is optimized in every bite. This is the mark of a great moqueca. There's something here for fish lovers and vegetarians.Again, a Rio translation of a plate from Bahia.A savory side of feijao fradinho(black-eyed peas) was included with my moqueca de peixe(fish).


Last weekend, I met up with Josh Lurie of FoodGPS with his girlfriend Allison, and Das Ubergeek of chowhound for a taste of Rio.And, to my delight, Renni and Ilma of Sabor da Bahia had stopped in for a bite, Renni, a lovely Brazilian singer sat in with a fine bossa nova guitarist.Other Brazilian diners sang along with bossa nova classics such as Corcovado, Agua de Beber, and Desafinado. It was a scene right out of a pub in Copacabana at 3AM. Look for Voz e Violao(voice and guitar) on Saturdays when Rio Brazil gives you the boteco(pub) experience known as Frigideira Carioca.The frigideira is a samba percussion instrument that looks like a little frying pan.It has a its roots back when people picked up whatever they could find, including pots and pans, to make music and party.


The desserts we had after our meal were amazingly good, The coconut pudding topped with blackberrie,rasberries, and bluberries was over the top delicious.


The mousse of passionfruit adorned with the fruit's dark seeds was pure Brazil, sweet and tart tropical fruit with stirring composition.


Luciene has family and friends helping out, her 72-year old mother, known as Dona Lucia, is revered for her cooking.Dona Lucia helps in the kitchen sometimes and makes all the brilliant savories at Rio Brazil Cafe. Coxinhas de frango(little croquette of chicken), shaped like little chicken thighs are perfect here,my favorite snack on the planet. They have croquettes with cheese, risolis of shrimp, and whatever Dona Lucia may feel like. They are the small party size, so get a sampling of whatever they have that night. These are made at home until they can replace the hood of the deep fryer.

If you find yourself singing songs by Gilberto Gil, of Carlos Jobim, thinking about an afternoon on Ipanema beach or a rowdy night in Copacabana after leaving Rio Brazil Cafe, you can blame Lucience Peck and her crew. They're bringing superior cooking and a bona fide Brazilian aesthetic to LA's dining scene.Beleza!

Check out Miles Clement's review of Rio Brazil Cafe from the LA Times.Thanks again, Miles.And, good friend, Josh Lurie's great review from our visit together.

Rio Brazil Cafe
3300 Overland Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90034
(310) 558-3338

In Search of the King of Brazil's National Dish-Delicious Meat and Black Bean Stew(or, the Feijoada Throwdown!)

Feijoada completa at a popular spot in Rio, with two bowls for different types of meats.

Written by: Streetgourmetla & Exile Kiss

One might be surprised to learn that the National Dish of Brazil isn’t something from the ever-popular Churrascaria (Brazilian Steakhouse/BBQ), but rather, something far less flashy: Feijoada (Beef, Pork and Black Bean Stew). For the uninitiated, seeing Feijoada for the first time, it’s easy to mistakenly think that it’s merely a “Side of Black Beans” meant to complement something grander. After all, it *is* a Black Bean-based Stew, and the meats that are slow-cooked within are coated with the dark colored liquid, which makes the dish look a bit ominous or underwhelming for some.

But a fantastic Feijoada is something far more than just a “Side of Black Beans”: It’s a beautiful, hearty Stew of slow-cooked goodness with intense cuts of Beef (such as Carne do Sol (Sun Dried Beef)) and Pork (Costela (Ribs), Pe (Pig’s Feet), Linguica Sausage, etc.), Herbs and Black Beans that meld together to form something truly soul-warming and delicious. (^_^) Add to that, the traditional sides of Farofa (Toasted Manioc (Cassava) Flour) and Couve (Sauteed / Fried Collard Greens) and Rice, and you have the makings of a savory, nourishing, humble dining experience with spans a wide range of flavors and enticing textures.

After the geographically challenging (but, oh so fun) Pescado Zarandeado (Special Open-Grilled Fish) Throwdown that took us all over Los Angeles and Orange Counties, we thought we were prepared for anything that this new search would throw at us. But a new set of challenges arose that were far different than anything we were expecting (more on this later).

This 2009 Feijoada Crawl took place over the span of 2 months, with a few guest foodies and Hounds joining us throughout. Besides Streetgourmetla and Exile Kiss, our dear friends Joanna, Mynor and Teenage Glutster were on hand to help with the judging.

(Note: For this Feijoada Throwdown, the restaurants are being rated solely on their Feijoada Completa (Complete Feijoada), any other factors or additional dishes were not factored into the ranking or scoring.)

* 6th Place *
Brasa Brasil Grill

Sitting along a busy stretch of Venice Boulevard, Brasa Brasil Grill may have served some decent cuts of meat for its Churrascaria Buffet, but its Feijoada was a shocker. We arrived on a quiet evening, and were eager to see what their Feijoada was like. Taking the first bite, it tasted like a restaurant that didn’t *care* about its food. The Black Beans tasted like they were quick-cooked, lacking any real flavor infusion from the meats. Brasa uses regular Bacon, Chorizo (which tasted like Hot Dogs, no joke) and Pork Loin, which was so dry and chunky that we literally had to spit it out.

To add insult to injury, their Farofa (Toasted Manioc Flour) tasted stale and really musty. The Couve (Sauteed Collard Greens) was overcooked, and Joanna wisely noted that the Pork Loin was nearly pure white on the inside (compared to the better Feijoada preparations we had where the meats were saturated with the deep, velvety colors of the Stew).

The Feijoada at Brasa really tasted like a dish made from a restaurant that didn’t care or was about to close down. Little did we realize that, unfortunately, it closed down a few weeks after we dined there. Price was $12 for the Feijoada.

*** Rating: 1.0 (out of 10.0) ***

Brasa Brasil Grill (CLOSED)
10022 Venice Blvd.
Culver City, CA 90232
Tel: (310) 558-3287

* 5th Place *
By Brazil

Heading down to the South Bay, we were very curious about By Brazil’s Feijoada. By Brazil even makes a handsome full-color, glossy postcard that they hand out to advertise their Feijoada, available only on Weekends. This showed promise. :)

Like the 6th Place entry, By Brazil is a Churrascaria Buffet, and the Feijoada is included in the set price. We started off with a classic pairing with Feijoada: A Caipirinha (Cachaca (Sugarcane Alcohol), Lime and Sugar). By Brazil’s version is made from Sagatiba Pura Cachaca, and the flavors were spot on: A really impressive balance of the Cachaca, the tartness from the Lime and the sweetness from the Sugar.

Our Feijoada Completa arrived at this point: This Black Bean Stew is made with Porco (Pork), Carne Seca (Dried Beef), Carne do Sol (Sun Dried Beef), Linguica (Portugese Pork Sausage), and Pe de Porco (Pig’s Feet).

The Black Beans were decently cooked, but lacked flavor and were really salty. Sadly, most of the meats were really tough as well. The Carne Seca and Carne do Sol had a bad funk about them, tasting like they were sitting around for too long. The Pe (Pig’s Feet) was also disappointing, with the skin being really rubbery and inedible.

The Couve (Collard Greens) was pretty decent, solidly cooked, still having some structure while being tender at the same time. The Farofa (Toasted Manioc Flour) tasted OK, but nothing standout. Price was $15 (before tax and tip). For a place specifically advertising their Feijoada, By Brazil’s version turned out to be a big disappointment.

*** Rating: 3.5 (out of 10.0) ***

(Feijoada served on Weekends Only, with their Buffet)

By Brazil
1615 Cabrillo Avenue
Torrance, CA 90502
Tel: (310) 787-7520

Hours: [Lunch] Mon – Thurs, 11:00 a.m. – 3:00 p.m.
[Dinner] Mon – Thurs, 5:00 p.m. – 9:30 p.m.
Fri – Sun, 12:00 p.m. – 9:30 p.m.




Feijoada made by friends Renni and Ilma, it's a dish to pass the day with laughter and good drink.


Just like in Brazil, a separate plate for meats. Actually, this was also neceassary to ensure none of us would hog all the tail and feet!


* 4th Place *
Café Brasil

Walking into Café Brasil, seeing the Brazilian soccer matches playing on their TVs and hearing the sounds of fresh Sugarcane being turned into Sugarcane Juice, it’s hard not to get excited about what the kitchen might turn out.

We began with Fresh-Squeezed Sugarcane Juice, which was just spot-on in its light sweet, simplicity, and Maracuja (Passion Fruit), which was delightfully tropical, naturally sweet with flavors that danced the line between Pineapple, Mango and its own inherent flavor profile. Both juices are reasons alone to go visit Café Brasil.

Café Brasil’s Feijoada uses only 3 types of meat: Linguica (Portugese Pork Sausage), Lomo (Pork Tenderloin) and Carne Seca (Dried Beef). There’s a Garlic note in the Black Beans, and the overall taste is something smooth and mild. The flavors of the Linguica, Lomo and Carne Seca taste like they’re faintly echoing in the Black Beans, but it’s a bit too shallow and straightforward. It tastes more like “Beans with Meat,” instead of a nice, slow-cooked melding of different flavors and components together.

Their Couve (Collard Greens) and Farofa (Toasted Manioc Flour) matched the Feijoada: Decently executed, but it wasn’t singing. Price was $16 (before tax and tip). They have great Fresh-Squeezed Juices and nice Prato Feito (Complete Meals), but not a destination for Feijoada.

*** Rating: 5.0 (out of 10.0) ***

Café Brasil
10831 Venice Boulevard
Los Angeles, CA 90034
Tel: (310) 837-8957

Hours: 7 Days A Week, 11:00 a.m. – 10:00 p.m.


* 3rd Place *
Taste of Brazil

While some of the surrounding areas may be dilapidated, pulling up to Taste of Brazil in El Sereno just brings a smile to your face: Surrounded with tall plants and a giant Brazilian Flag emblazoned on its roof, with simple, bright outdoor lights and Brazilian Jazz pouring out onto the street, it’s immediately inviting. :)

We start with a Caju (Cashew Fruit Juice) drink. The flavor of this Caju drink is wonderful in its mild, lightly sweet, slightly fruity, nutty and tropical taste. For this summer evening, it’s completely refreshing.

The Feijoada at Taste of Brazil is prepared by Sao Paulo native, Chef Edilene. The first thing to strike us is the smoky, complex, deep porkiness of the Stew. This was definitely a step up from the lackluster / mild versions we had from the other restaurants. Chef Edilene uses Carne Seca (Dried Beef), Top Sirloin, Pork Butt, Costelas (Ribs), and the reason for the smokiness: 2 types of Smoked Sausage, Paio and Linguica Calabresa.

With 6 types of meats used to cook the stew and Chef Edilene’s cooking skills, the Feijoada comes out pretty authentic and better than average. While the Black Beans are excellent, unfortunately each serving of Feijoada is a bit inconsistent in terms of what you get for meat: Unlike the better places in Brazil that actually serve each of the distinct cuts of meat with each serving, here, it’s whatever’s ladled into the bowl. So for this visit, we got to try a sparse piece of Top Sirloin (which was a bit undercooked and chewy), a bit of the Paio (which was nice and smoky), and some Pork Butt, but nothing else.

Their Couve (Collard Greens) had a vibrant, fresh garlic flavor, while the Farofa and Rice were par for the course. But as an added bonus, they served the Feijoada with Torresmo (Fried Pork Rind), Orange Slices, Salsa de Tomate, and Banana Frita (Fried Bananas).

This was the most expensive of the Feijoada restaurants we visited, with it being priced at $17.40 (before tax and tip), but with the nice ambiance, free-flowing, mellow Live Brazilian Jazz, interesting menu of Brazilian classics, refreshing Caju drink, and above average Feijoada (albeit sparse on meat), Taste of Brazil is one place I wouldn’t mind revisiting from time-to-time. :)

*** Rating: 6.5 (out of 10.0) ***

Taste of Brazil
4838 S. Huntington Drive
Los Angeles, CA 90032
Tel: (323) 342-9422

Hours: Mon *and* Thurs, 11:30 a.m. – 2:30 p.m. / 5:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.
Fri, 11:30 a.m. – 2:30 p.m. / 5:00 p.m. – 9:30 p.m.
Sat, 11:30 a.m. – 9:30 p.m.
Sun, 11:30 a.m. – 9:00 p.m.
Closed Tuesday and Wednesday.




Rio Brasil Cafe


Luciene Peck's top notch feijoada, Rio style, Rio Brasil Cafe.


Luci's delicious sides round out the completa.


Cozinha da Nalva at Zabumba


Nalva's brilliant feijoada, Bahia style, Zabumba.


Rustic cooking and love from Nalva, Zabumba


* 1st Place (TIE) *
Zabumba

One might find it odd that some of the best Feijoada in L.A. is at a Latin Night Club, but it’s all due to one simple reason: Chef Nalva of Bahia, Brazil, who has taken over the kitchen and transformed the menu.

As soon as our Feijoada arrived, we could tell that it was different from the others already: Distinctive, rustic cuts of meat, a gorgeous consistency to the Stew and the fragrant smell of the entire dish. Chef Nalva makes her Feijoada with Perna (Pork Leg), Top Sirloin, Homemade Carne Seca (Dried Beef), Pe de Porco (Pig’s Feet), Linguica (Portugese Pork Sausage) and Bacon, all slow-cooked with the Black Beans for a minimum of 3 hours.

The Black Beans and Stew itself were outstanding! There’s this velvety, lightly viscous mouthfeel, with the Beans and the Stew really capturing the beautiful flavors of all the different cuts: It’s so rich, deep and earthy.

The meats on a whole are melt-in-your-mouth tender, with the Perna (Pork Leg) meat tasting so fresh and pure, arguably the best of the cuts. The only one slight misstep would be the Linguica, which had a slightly metallic taste, but otherwise, the rest of the cuts tasted like they were lovingly stewed together for hours, all suspended in this wonderful, medium-thick consistency Stew.

But in addition to the great Stew, are the freshly made sides: The rough cut Couve (Sauteed Collard Greens) taste vibrant and has a light Garlic note, and the Farofa (Roasted Cassava Flour) is wonderful with some Butter and Onions, the best Farofa of the restaurants we tried. Add in the fluffy Rice and Oranges and it’s easy to see why it took the top spot.

The price is $13 for this amazing dish. Chef Nalva jokingly says that besides Bay Leaf and her proprietary recipe, the most important ingredient is “love.” (^_^) After trying her Feijoada, I would have to say it’s absolutely true. Highly recommended.

(Note: Zabumba is a Night Club that hosts Live Music and/or Dance Classes at various times throughout the week. Arrive early to avoid the Music and Dance Classes, or just sit back and enjoy while eating. :)

(Note 2: Be sure to call ahead and confirm if they have Feijoada that night. Sometimes they sell out early.)

*** Rating: 8.7 (out of 10.0) ***

Zabumba (with Chef Nalva)
10717 Venice Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90034
Tel: (424) 652-0077 (Direct Line, Chef Nalva)
(310) 841-6525 (Zabumba Info Line)

Hours: Wed – Sun, 7:00 p.m. – 2:00 a.m.(!)
Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.

* 1st Place (TIE) *
Rio Brasil Café

The other top tier Feijoada restaurant is so new, they haven’t even installed their proper sign yet. From the street, be on the lookout for “Delicias Do Brazil” (see picture below), and when you enter the mini-mall, look for the generic “Brazilian Food” placeholder sign. :) Rio Brasil Café is serving some excellent Brazilian cuisine thanks to Chef Luciene Peck, who prepares her Feijoada Rio Style, home of the most famous Feijoada tradition in Brazil.

Like Chef Nalva’s version at Zabumba, when Chef Luciene brings out the Feijoada, it’s immediately apparent just how different it looks and smells compared to the previous restaurants. The Feijoada here is made with Homemade Carne Seca (Dried Beef), Homemade Costela (Salted Pork Ribs), Linguica (Portugese Pork Sausage), and Pe de Porco (Pig’s Feet).

While there were only 4 cuts of meat, it shows just how deft Chef Luciene’s cooking skills are: The result is this thick, rich and utterly *savory* Feijoada Stew. The Black Beans are cooked to a great consistency, and the Costela (Pork Ribs) are mouth-wateringly succulent, so tender and fresh! The Pe (Pig’s Feet) are also fresh with a nice tenderness and good porkiness.

The Couve (Sauteed Collard Greens) and Farofa (Roasted Cassava Flour) are nicely executed, but Zabumba’s version was better (more flavors coming through in both items). The Rice and Oranges are fine as well.

One other standout item at Rio Brasil Café is their Pimenta Sauce (Malagueta Pepper Sauce): This homemade version by Chef Luciene is excellent! Made with Caju (Cashew), Olive Oil, Vinegar and Malagueta Peppers, there’s a sweet, tangy, slow burning heat. It’s fruity and nutty as well. We couldn’t stop eating it. :)

Rio Brasil Café has only just opened, and they are serving this delicious version of Feijoada only on Weekends – Friday and Saturday Only, for $15. Hopefully they put up their signs soon and start to advertise their excellent Brazilian dishes. We know we’ll be back again and again for their Feijoada.

*** Rating: 8.7 (out of 10.0) ***

(Note: Feijoada served on Fridays and Saturdays Only. Call ahead to confirm as they sell out quickly.)

Rio Brasil Café
3300 Overland Avenue, Suite 103
Los Angeles, CA 90034
Tel: (310) 558-3338

Hours: Mon – Sat, 11:30 a.m. – 3:00 p.m. / 5:00 p.m. – 8:00 p.m.
Closed Sundays.





Taste of Brazil delivers a worthy feijoada, available every day they're open


Taste's sides include a little torresmo(cracklin'), nice


Cafe Brazil's feijoada completa could stand to raise the stakes

* Reference *
Homemade Feijoada

To cap off this adventure, several months in the making, we dined at the house of our Baiana friends, Renni and Ilma, who were gracious enough to cook up a true homemade version of Feijoada. In driving all over town to prepare their beautiful dish, we were lucky enough to experience “Feijoada” in its truest state: In the hospitable home of Brazilians as a Lunch / Aftenoon event, drinking Caipirinhas while conversing in the kitchen, with family and friends laughing and joking lovingly. The best Feijoadas are usually found in homes, with recipes passed from generation to generation, and this afternoon’s meal was no exception.

To kick things off with a bang, we started with some STRONG Caipirinhas (Cachaca, Lime, Sugar) courtesy of Streetgourmetla and some authentic Cachaca, 51. :)

But even the strong drinks couldn’t impede our growing hunger as the amazing smell of the slow-cooked Feijoada was pouring out of the kitchen. This Feijoada was made with Rabo (Pig Tail), Costela (Pork Ribs), Carne Seca (Dried Beef), Carne de Boi (Beef), Pe de Porco (Pig’s Feet), Paio (Smoked Pork Sausage), Calabresa (Smoked Pork Sausage), and Kielbasa (Polish Sausage); an impressive (and very traditional) catalog of ingredients.

When it was ready to serve, the meats were separated into bowls, taken out from the Stew (as is often the presentation in Brazil) so that you can choose your meats as you’re eating the rest of the Stew.

Taking a bite, the Black Bean Stew was... incredible. The Black Beans were so succulent, with this perfect texture, not overcooked in the least, yet still reflecting the hours of slow-cooking to meld all the flavors and ingredients together. The Rabo (Pig’s Tail) was so *fresh* and juicy and fatty. There was this luscious viscosity from the Rabo – like a slighty thicker, more buttery mouthfeel than what you’d get with Pork Belly – and the Pe (Pig’s Feet) exhibited similar qualities, with this gorgeous porkiness. Their Costela (Pork Ribs) were fall-off-the-bone, stewed-for-hours, moist and absolutely delicious! The 3 types of Sausages helped add a touch of heat and smokiness giving the Feijoada even more standout characteristics.

And then we had homemade Farofa (Roasted Manioc Flour) with Bacon(!), which just pushed this meal over the edge into “Legendary” status. We couldn’t stop eating it. (^_^) The Rice was spot-on, and the Couve (Collard Greens) were nicely sauteed, very fresh and pure (but I have to say, Chef Nalva’s version has a slight edge).

We also had a homemade Pimenta (Malagueta Peppers, Cilantro, Tomatoes, Onions, Caju (Cashew)) which was incredibly spicy, with an immediate heat, but oh so fragrant and silky. And we finished up with the traditional fresh-sliced Oranges.

Experiencing a true, homemade Feijoada with dear friends was an eye-opener and really helped give us perspective and reference for what restaurants are serving to the public. It was an honor (and it was a bit sad) to know that the best Feijoada we’ve had in L.A. comes from a family’s kitchen, better than our favorite restaurant versions.

(Reference Only)
*** Rating: 9.3 (out of 10.0) ***

This Feijoada Throwdown was difficult due to the current economic situation. Feijoada is difficult-to-make, time-consuming, and costly with the addition of the rarer, hard-to-find cuts of meat. While our friend Renni’s version was by far the best, she went to too many places to mention to find the right cuts. Woodspoon was supposed to have Feijoada but took it off the menu. They wanted to reintroduce it but have been waiting on a liquor license (to debut both things at once). We had checked back a couple of times during this quest, but they were still not able to gain the license, nor debut their Feijoada. Moqueca and Galletto's make Feijoada, but only on special occasions (Galletto’s makes it only if you have a group of ten people, minimum). It seems no restaurant wants to be stuck with a pot of unsold Feijoada. Hopefully, when the economy improves, more of these restaurants will be willing to keep Feijoada as a regular menu item, at least on weekends.

Currently, a restaurant can't really go to the lengths that our friends did for a Feijoada. After seeing the true potential of a well-made Feijoada, we’re hoping more food providers, wholesalers and markets will be able to stock all the different cuts that are traditionally used, to enable restaurants to make a better version without it getting cost- or time-prohibitive (in Brazil all the cuts of meat and sausages are readily available in any supermarket. They're even sold in kits containing all the cuts).

As a point of reference, in Brazil you can find well-made Feijoada in a full spectrum of restaurants, from fine dining establishments to hole-in-the-walls (with cooks that have been making it for the last 20+ years). Here’s to hoping that this humble Meat and Black Bean Stew in L.A. can reach the quality level and accessibility found in Brazil.

Final Thoughts: (Streetgourmetla) This was logistically hard and a little frustrating, but in the end, this was one of the best dining experiences I've had in L.A. Glad we did this, and it was the best company throughout.

(Exile Kiss) Yet another fun, interesting, and (mostly) delicious exploration of a dish that seemed so simple, but attained such greatness. Experiencing a homemade version of Feijoada with Streetgourmetla, Mynor, Joanna, and Teenage Glutster will always be an indelible memory. Can’t wait for our next one. (^_~)

Here's Anthony Bourdain doing feijoada at a locals home with good friends in Sao Paulo, passing the entire afternoon eating and drinking. The video clip says it all.

Bon Appetite!(In portuguese=bom appeteetch)