Burbank’s Best Kept Secret: The Commissary’s Rice Bowl - The Coffee Commissary is a petite coffee shop on the criss-cross intersection of Olive and Alameda. One of my gripes when I worked in Burbank was that I ha...
Sunday, July 26, 2009
Brazilian falafel! Acaraje, the storied Brazilian street food at Sabor da Bahia.
You order is served, acaraje para viaje(acaraje to go).
The state of Bahia located in the North-East of Brasil is has the most distinctive african culture in the country. From capoeira(afro-brasilian martial arts dance),african derived music forms such as samba and axe(aah-shay), the west-african derived religion called candomble, to its cuisine with strong links to Africa, Bahia is a treasure. Dende oil(palm oil), extracted from the West African palm tree that was brought by slaves to Brasil is a defining ingredient in Bahia cuisine.
After missing eachother for the past month and a half due to my busiy schedule, I finally hooked up with Reni(hay-ne) and Ilma(Eel-ma) of Sabor da Bahia catering for some acaraje(a-cah-rah-jay) today. Acaraje is like a Brazilian version of falafel. A black eyed pea fritter which is deep fried in dende oil then shaped into ball, split open when cooked, and then stuffed with vatapa.Vatapa is a creamy paste made of bread crumbs, shrimp, coconut milk, and dende.Malagueta peppers, Brazil's chiles, are ground into a sauce to put in the acaraje, and a tomato salad adds to the party, but not without some dried shrimp thrown in.In Brasil, acaraje can be the size of a softball, quite a filling meal. This is street food, the most common item you will find in the colonial part of Salvador da Bahia called Pelourinho. The baianas(bahia women) wear traditional white clothes with a head wrap.Baianas are so cool that every samba school in Rio and Sao Paulo has a procession of baianas in traditional costumes.
Reni and Ilma make party size acaraje, the same size of falafel. And friend and I stopped over to watch them make it to order. This is a labor intensive food.Their are baianas in kitchens at our Brazilian restaurants here in LA, but they don't have acaraje. Too much work.
Black eyed peas, the foundation of acaraje.
Whole black eyed peas are first ground into smaller pieces. These are then soaked in water and peeled. The outer layer of the black eyed pea must be removed to yield a perfectly white batter.
Ground black eyed peas.
Malagueta peppers are soaked in vinegar and spices then kept refrigerated until use.You can buy them here in LA at the Brazilian markets, but the homemade version is much more satisfying.For Sabor da Bahia's pimenta(hot sauce), they mash it up so it spreads easily on the split open acaraje.
pimenta the traditional way.
When we peeked in the kitchen, the vatapa was in a bowl of warm water on the stove to preserve its consistency.
The batter for the acaraje is stirred constantly before deep frying, but only the hands of a baiana are suitable.Reni chatted with us about Bahia, and axe music, she is a singer. Never once did she stop stirring, loving care from baiana to the hot dende.
The hands of a baiana stir the dough for acaraje.
Acaraje deep frying in dende.
For $10, you get five acaraje, pimenta(hot sauce), tomato salad, and vatapa. The vatapa is thicker than many I've had on the street in Brasil, but for this smaller sized acaraje, it's perfect. The more runny vatapa would not stay on these party size delicacies. And, Reni and Ilma like it this way. I do too.They don't put the dried shrimp in their acaraje though because they haven't found the kind they use in Brazil here in LA, and Americans aren't used to eating whole dried shrimp with the shell on.To many starnge looks at teir catering events, so they don't put the dried shrimp with your order.They also make a version of acaraje called abara. It's a similar preparation except for that the ingredients are steamed in banana leaves. It's a Brazilian black eyed pea tamal with shrimp and dende.You get three abara for $10.
Acaraje stuffed with vatapa, salada de tomate, and pimenta.
Homemade malagueta peppers in vinegar.
Ilma and Reni's apartment is rich in Bahia culture.
Reni and Ilma are baianas, their apartment is immersed in Bahia culture, wish I could have heard Reni's music. She could'nt stop stirring balck eyed peas long enough to go put on her CD. This is a true gem. Acaraje, from a baiana cooked in her own home. Next best thing to being in Pelourinho and getting it on the street. All you have to do is call them a place your order. They have acaraje on Fridays, and need at least an hour to prepare your order, so call in advance.Call the day before,leave them a message if they don't pick up and they will get back to you. Abara is available every day. They work during the week, but sometimes can get orders out in the evenings Monday through Thursday.Their apartment is located near Overland and Venice Bl. in Palms, they'll give you their address to pick up your order when you call.I've been asking restaurants for years to make this stuff, thanks Reni and Ilma for this taste of Bahia.At present, Sabor da Bahia is the only place to get acaraje. Look for them at Brazilian festivals too.
Reni fries acaraje outside her apartment in her makeshift deep fryer.
Sabor da Bahia
The Authentic Taste of Bahia(located near Venice Bl. and Overland)
Catering and Festivals
orders are for pick up only