Wednesday, March 2, 2016

King Taco Abdicates the Throne with Dreadful Tacos Only a Food Critic Could Love

King Taco, an institution, but I'd rather get my tacos elsewhere


My good friend, Gustavo Arellano, editor of the OC Weekly and author of Taco USA: How Mexican Food Conquered America, wrote in his authoritative treatise on Mexican food in the U.S.A., that King Taco is responsible for the taco truck revolution. It's true, and Arellano is correct in giving credit and respect to this successful chain of beloved taquerias, but Los Angeles Times critic and documentary subject, Jonathan Gold, who has been a huge supporter of the food at King Taco (recently giving their shitty tacos a B+ in his book), goes too far. 


I decided to stop by one last time; it'd been years since I had King Taco as I was never impressed with their tacos upon moving to Los Angeles back in '95. So I headed to the King Taco on Cesar Chavez, just east of Soto in Boyle Heights for what will definitely be my final visit to any King Taco, to dine anyway. Read all about my visit on my latest for Los Angeles Magazine's Digest: King Taco Is Not Worthy of the Crown. Guacala!


The patio at King Taco gives diners a more street experience


A trio of pitiful tacos, camouflaged in an excess of extra stinky onions, cilantro and a strong salsa